Kauhale

Kauhale(cow-ha-lay) means home in Hawaiian! I've moved around so much, I don't know what to call home anymore, but if I had to pick I would definitely choose the beach. It is the only place where I can be myself and I feel the most comfortable. Surfing is the biggest part of my life and its the biggest rush of excitement, joy, adrenaline, and frustration you will ever feel. Surfing is climbing from a warm bed in pre-dawn’s coolness a sleepy drive, coffee and doughnuts at a roadside diner and the clatter of surfboards as they’re unstacked from the car rack. Surfing is the joy of watching a sun rise slowly into the sky. It’s crisp, clean waves, crests blown high by an offshore wind. It’s gray mist, dampness and cold sand under bare feet, the lonely cry of a gull sweeping across silent, brooding seas.It's a feeling you can only get by wrapping the leash around your ankle and taking that first step towards the waves.